There's a new four lane toll road that connects from Tangier all the way south to Casablanca, so the old highway makes a nice quiet drive in diversion. It meanders through the rolling agricultural countryside that was once Rome's "breadbasket."
Along the old highway between Asilah and Larache
LixisLixis was soon in our sights.
The ruins of this Roman city spread out on a hillside just south of the city of Larache. Even in ruin, the site is dramatic and commanding. It's bracketed by the ocean on one side and a wide sweeping river on two sides and has a wonderful 360 degree panorama from the top of the hill. Despite its wealth of treasures (amphitheater, mosaics, etc.) the site is completely open and unprotected, there's even lifestock grazing through.
The gentle Guardian greeted us warmly and explained many things, in a mix of Spanish and French, as we wandered around together. But given all our long silences, he too seemed to equally appreciate the simple power of the place itself.
The ruins of this Roman city spread out on a hillside just south of the city of Larache. Even in ruin, the site is dramatic and commanding. It's bracketed by the ocean on one side and a wide sweeping river on two sides and has a wonderful 360 degree panorama from the top of the hill. Despite its wealth of treasures (amphitheater, mosaics, etc.) the site is completely open and unprotected, there's even lifestock grazing through.
The gentle Guardian greeted us warmly and explained many things, in a mix of Spanish and French, as we wandered around together. But given all our long silences, he too seemed to equally appreciate the simple power of the place itself.
LixisWith daylight waning, we dashed off for our next stop: the neolithic stone circle at M'soura.
Although I had been there before, we never would have found it again without the help of a kind local guy who rode with us and showed us the way. Chomping on peanuts, he kinda-sorta spoke some Spanish, just like us, so it made for a comical set of steps and missteps. Plus the dirt track was mostly mud due to the recent rains. Finally the route got so bad that we left the car behind and continued the last few hundred yards on foot. As you see in the photos below, we finally arrived in good humor.
But anticipation hung heavy for the return with darkness closing in and the poor conditions of the dirt track. With several very bad stretches of mud, muck and incline, we knew we'd be lucky to get out quickly or easily. Fortunately, our little Fiat Palio was well up to the task and we were back on solid pavement in no time.
Although I had been there before, we never would have found it again without the help of a kind local guy who rode with us and showed us the way. Chomping on peanuts, he kinda-sorta spoke some Spanish, just like us, so it made for a comical set of steps and missteps. Plus the dirt track was mostly mud due to the recent rains. Finally the route got so bad that we left the car behind and continued the last few hundred yards on foot. As you see in the photos below, we finally arrived in good humor.
But anticipation hung heavy for the return with darkness closing in and the poor conditions of the dirt track. With several very bad stretches of mud, muck and incline, we knew we'd be lucky to get out quickly or easily. Fortunately, our little Fiat Palio was well up to the task and we were back on solid pavement in no time.
Neolithic stone circle at M'soura
Main monolith at M'soura
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