Lixis and M'soura

There's a new four lane toll road that connects from Tangier all the way south to Casablanca, so the old highway makes a nice quiet drive in diversion. It meanders through the rolling agricultural countryside that was once Rome's "breadbasket."

Along the old highway between Asilah and Larache

Lixis

Lixis was soon in our sights.

The ruins of this Roman city spread out on a hillside just south of the city of Larache. Even in ruin, the site is dramatic and commanding. It's bracketed by the ocean on one side and a wide sweeping river on two sides and has a wonderful 360 degree panorama from the top of the hill. Despite its wealth of treasures (amphitheater, mosaics, etc.) the site is completely open and unprotected, there's even lifestock grazing through.

The gentle Guardian greeted us warmly and explained many things, in a mix of Spanish and French, as we wandered around together. But given all our long silences, he too seemed to equally appreciate the simple power of the place itself.

Lixis

With daylight waning, we dashed off for our next stop: the neolithic stone circle at M'soura.

Although I had been there before, we never would have found it again without the help of a kind local guy who rode with us and showed us the way. Chomping on peanuts, he kinda-sorta spoke some Spanish, just like us, so it made for a comical set of steps and missteps. Plus the dirt track was mostly mud due to the recent rains. Finally the route got so bad that we left the car behind and continued the last few hundred yards on foot. As you see in the photos below, we finally arrived in good humor.

But anticipation hung heavy for the return with darkness closing in and the poor conditions of the dirt track. With several very bad stretches of mud, muck and incline, we knew we'd be lucky to get out quickly or easily. Fortunately, our little Fiat Palio was well up to the task and we were back on solid pavement in no time.

Neolithic stone circle at M'soura

Main monolith at M'soura

Cap Spartel and Asilah

Dudley was in town for a quick visit. He had just been on Malta and in Tunisia: giving a lecture on neolithic Malta and then beachcombing on Djerba - Homer's isle of the lotus-eaters. His visit made a good excuse to rent a car and make a whirlwind tour of the extreme northwest coast of Africa; it's just west of Tangier.

We first headed up Mount Washington, past the King's Palace, and stopped for a walk around a forest of giant eucalyptus trees. At that moment the sun was just breaking through dense clouds, the air damp and organic, and rain water was still dripping from the trees. Indeed, we had postponed the outing for a day because of torrential rain. It was lucky that we did, because as you can see in the photos that follow, we had wonderful weather with dramatic skies and soft winter sunlight.

At Cap Spartel

Continuing on, the road soon winds steeply downward to the Atlantic's waters edge. Out here, it's a dramatic and almost completely undeveloped landscape. As we climbed out of the car, a camel driver rushed over to ask us to change a few euro coins for him. Then he made small talk. He pointed out a pile of concrete across the road. It's a new resort, "Spanish," he reported. He seemed intent on waiting around for it to bring more camel riders and more euros. Wonder when that might be?

On the coastal route to Asilah

Following a quick stop at the Grotto of Hercules, we headed for Asilah - the next town south along the coast. I first visited Asilah in 1991.

In the Asilah medina

I like how the two men, and the pay telephone, meld into the wall mural in the photo above. The city has, with Portuguese origins, five hundred years of history.

The small fishing port, Asilah

The small fishing port, however, is a much more recent addition. It seems to have never attracted the trade which was expected; indeed, it was so quiet that it seemed to take on the air of a still life painting.

The ocean itself, and the wind, rough and loud provided most of the action. Otherwise the town was nearly deserted.

Asilah, with walled cemetery in the foreground

Ocean front prospect, Asilah

Shrine at water's edge, Asilah

After lunch we headed south. Next stop: Lixis, the ruins of a Roman city.

Tinfou

The view from camel-back, Tinfou Dunes

Talk about "climb a high dune" (Sting lyrics, Bowles' reference), those are people atop the dune at left.

Long Shadows at Sunset, Tinfou Dunes

Tinfou Dunes

As you see, our guide was equally adept at photography. We stayed the night in Tamagroute - highly recommended.

Touring a Ksar on the return to Zagora, our guide at left

In front of Hotel Souria, back in Marrakech

Club KACM

Badmitton in Marrakech

Moroccan National (age group) Champion (left)

Badminton Club KACM, Salon Ben Chekroun, Marrakech

Club coach (left)

Behind the scenes at Expo reception

The inquiring videographer!

Li getting some behind the scenes shots from the Tangier Expo 2012 Reception in November of 2007.

Update: Nov 30, 2007
The Expo was awarded to Korea.

Tangier Expo 2012

Last week, Tangier hosted the Expo 2012 selection committee for a final "walk through" the city. If selected it will be the first EXPO held in an African, Arab, Muslim country.

The video above (you might need to click on the icon to play) shows some scenes along the historic route: starting above at the Catholic Church, down past the old cemeteries to the Grand Socco, through the medina walls and further down the hill to the Zoco Chico (the city center since before Roman times), past the old Grand Mosque and out to the port, and finally, along the beach front for the finale of music, flags, marshal arts, parading ships and rollerbladers.

Soon a vote will be taken to select from the three final candidates: Tangier and cities in Poland and Korea.


Update Korea was the winner. In the end, their themes of high technology and global warming were insurmountable.

Michael Moore in Denver (June 2007)