Thought for the Day

That was a memorable day for me,
for it made great changes in me,
But it is the same way with any life.
Imagine one selected day struck out of it,
and think how different its course would have been.
Pause you who read this, and think for a moment
of the long chain of iron or gold,
of thorns or flowers,
that would never have bound you,
but for the formation of the first link
on one memorable day.

----Charles Dickens

Lixis and M'soura

There's a new four lane toll road that connects from Tangier all the way south to Casablanca, so the old highway makes a nice quiet drive in diversion. It meanders through the rolling agricultural countryside that was once Rome's "breadbasket."

Along the old highway between Asilah and Larache

Lixis

Lixis was soon in our sights.

The ruins of this Roman city spread out on a hillside just south of the city of Larache. Even in ruin, the site is dramatic and commanding. It's bracketed by the ocean on one side and a wide sweeping river on two sides and has a wonderful 360 degree panorama from the top of the hill. Despite its wealth of treasures (amphitheater, mosaics, etc.) the site is completely open and unprotected, there's even lifestock grazing through.

The gentle Guardian greeted us warmly and explained many things, in a mix of Spanish and French, as we wandered around together. But given all our long silences, he too seemed to equally appreciate the simple power of the place itself.

Lixis

With daylight waning, we dashed off for our next stop: the neolithic stone circle at M'soura.

Although I had been there before, we never would have found it again without the help of a kind local guy who rode with us and showed us the way. Chomping on peanuts, he kinda-sorta spoke some Spanish, just like us, so it made for a comical set of steps and missteps. Plus the dirt track was mostly mud due to the recent rains. Finally the route got so bad that we left the car behind and continued the last few hundred yards on foot. As you see in the photos below, we finally arrived in good humor.

But anticipation hung heavy for the return with darkness closing in and the poor conditions of the dirt track. With several very bad stretches of mud, muck and incline, we knew we'd be lucky to get out quickly or easily. Fortunately, our little Fiat Palio was well up to the task and we were back on solid pavement in no time.

Neolithic stone circle at M'soura

Main monolith at M'soura

Cap Spartel and Asilah

Dudley was in town for a quick visit. He had just been on Malta and in Tunisia: giving a lecture on neolithic Malta and then beachcombing on Djerba - Homer's isle of the lotus-eaters. His visit made a good excuse to rent a car and make a whirlwind tour of the extreme northwest coast of Africa; it's just west of Tangier.

We first headed up Mount Washington, past the King's Palace, and stopped for a walk around a forest of giant eucalyptus trees. At that moment the sun was just breaking through dense clouds, the air damp and organic, and rain water was still dripping from the trees. Indeed, we had postponed the outing for a day because of torrential rain. It was lucky that we did, because as you can see in the photos that follow, we had wonderful weather with dramatic skies and soft winter sunlight.

At Cap Spartel

Continuing on, the road soon winds steeply downward to the Atlantic's waters edge. Out here, it's a dramatic and almost completely undeveloped landscape. As we climbed out of the car, a camel driver rushed over to ask us to change a few euro coins for him. Then he made small talk. He pointed out a pile of concrete across the road. It's a new resort, "Spanish," he reported. He seemed intent on waiting around for it to bring more camel riders and more euros. Wonder when that might be?

On the coastal route to Asilah

Following a quick stop at the Grotto of Hercules, we headed for Asilah - the next town south along the coast. I first visited Asilah in 1991.

In the Asilah medina

I like how the two men, and the pay telephone, meld into the wall mural in the photo above. The city has, with Portuguese origins, five hundred years of history.

The small fishing port, Asilah

The small fishing port, however, is a much more recent addition. It seems to have never attracted the trade which was expected; indeed, it was so quiet that it seemed to take on the air of a still life painting.

The ocean itself, and the wind, rough and loud provided most of the action. Otherwise the town was nearly deserted.

Asilah, with walled cemetery in the foreground

Ocean front prospect, Asilah

Shrine at water's edge, Asilah

After lunch we headed south. Next stop: Lixis, the ruins of a Roman city.

Tinfou

The view from camel-back, Tinfou Dunes

Talk about "climb a high dune" (Sting lyrics, Bowles' reference), those are people atop the dune at left.

Long Shadows at Sunset, Tinfou Dunes

Tinfou Dunes

As you see, our guide was equally adept at photography. We stayed the night in Tamagroute - highly recommended.

Touring a Ksar on the return to Zagora, our guide at left

In front of Hotel Souria, back in Marrakech

Club KACM

Badmitton in Marrakech

Moroccan National (age group) Champion (left)

Badminton Club KACM, Salon Ben Chekroun, Marrakech

Club coach (left)

Behind the scenes at Expo reception

The inquiring videographer!

Li getting some behind the scenes shots from the Tangier Expo 2012 Reception in November of 2007.

Update: Nov 30, 2007
The Expo was awarded to Korea.

Tangier Expo 2012

Last week, Tangier hosted the Expo 2012 selection committee for a final "walk through" the city. If selected it will be the first EXPO held in an African, Arab, Muslim country.

The video above (you might need to click on the icon to play) shows some scenes along the historic route: starting above at the Catholic Church, down past the old cemeteries to the Grand Socco, through the medina walls and further down the hill to the Zoco Chico (the city center since before Roman times), past the old Grand Mosque and out to the port, and finally, along the beach front for the finale of music, flags, marshal arts, parading ships and rollerbladers.

Soon a vote will be taken to select from the three final candidates: Tangier and cities in Poland and Korea.


Update Korea was the winner. In the end, their themes of high technology and global warming were insurmountable.

Michael Moore in Denver (June 2007)

Back to Tangier

Rock of Gibraltar

Since Li's visa did not include the UK, we figured a photo from a distance would have to suffice.

Crossing the Strait of Gibraltar

It is quite a scene to chug along with the European coast on your right and African on the left.

Port of Tangier

Port of Tangier, detail

Our place is up the hill near the Mohammad V Mosque. It is the thick tower just barely visible on the skyline in the center of the picture.

Madrid

Pigs Ear

The stop in Madrid was all too brief and the only thing to rival the Goya's was the pig's ear (no fur in sight): yum.

Barcelona

Columbus Monument, inside the top looking down

One of the first things we did was take a ride up inside the Columbus Monument for a look out over the city. Although it did not look especially tall, the view was great.

Sagrada Familia

The so-called "Gaudi Cathedral" is one of those few places that exceeds expectations. We spent a half day wandering around and taking it all in. Even after a hundred years of work much remains to be done and as you can see by the cranes and scaffolding, heavy-duty work is ongoing.

From a tower at Sagrada Familia

At the Picasso Museum

Another major stop is the Picasso Museum which especially chronicles his formative creative years. We found the medieval building that the museum is housed in to be equally interesting, but, watch your head: I guess people were pretty short then.

Subway Platform

Once I heard about somewhere, it escapes me where, that had done away with public trash cans because they were being used to hide bombs. This seems to be a much better alternative solution.

Naturist Beach

Since this is a family oriented blog we'll just show this picture. Plus, some of the sights actually caused some to gasp, "oh, my eyes, my eyes!"

Antwerp

City Center

This place really shows what can happen when you invest in maintenance and infrastructure. Everywhere you look it is clean, orderly, and civilized.

City Center

What could be better than rolling up here on your bike for an afternoon conversation with a coffee or beer?

City Center, detail

Central Station

This is a great example of successful renovation: the new high speed rail tracks and platforms are deep below and inside the hundred year old structure. It works and looks great.

Billboard Advertisement

Did you know Li likes scotch?

Amsterdam

The Main Drag, from the train station

It's fair to say that we really liked Amsterdam. After the long spread out spaces of Berlin it was great to be in a small compact place, plus we stayed right in the center in the thick of it all. And how could you not love a city where the trams, walkers, and bikers outnumber the cars?

Stairway to ... our room

The only real drawback was the climb up those stairs to our room: it really made you think before heading in or out. Come to think of it, the woozy mornings after those late nights might have even rivaled the dreaded stairs.

Street Scene, "coffee houses"

As most people know, Amsterdam is a model city when it comes to openness. And we found that it all works out just fine.

Street Scene, city center

Street Scene, "oldest profession" area

No, not religious leader.

Magic Mushroom Shop

The Van Gogh Museum was the overall highlight of Amsterdam. Since photography is not allowed inside, we don't have any pictures to show. Instead, we'll just ponder if Van Gogh had been taking some of the magic mushrooms...

Berlin

Berlin Museum

The highlight of the visit was probably the first morning when we visited this excellent museum. Having all the history and trials and tribulations of the city fresh in mind was an invaluable asset as we toured around the next few days.

Berlin Museum, book banning / burning

This was an excellent exhibit showing how the Nazi's used fear to get people to give up their rights in the name of security and nationalism. It's a powerful lesson best not forgotten.

Berlin Museum, bomb shelter

Amazingly, beneath the building that houses the museum is also a nuclear fallout shelter. Although this place could theoretically house and protect three thousand people for two weeks it sure looked like doomsday. And other such facilities were built for less that 5% of the total city population. Imagine the scramble to get in the door if something ever does happened. Clearly we need to develop and pursue alternative strategies.

Brandenburg Gate

The rebuilding of the city and the development of the wall areas is amazing and, of course, the Brandenburg Gate is the epicenter.

Poster for SiCKO

Paris

At the Lourve

Beyond food and lodging, the first order of the day was a trip to the Lourve. Since it was "free" Sunday, it was packed and we joined right in with the throngs.

Statuary at the Lourve

Although we dogged pursued the Mona Lisa, it's fair to say that our favorites were the ancient statuary.

Notre Dame Cathedral, detail.

As we traversed the island approaching to the Cathedral, we could hear singing blasting out of a PA system. On closer inspection we were surprised to find a huge outdoor mass being held for a huge group of Boy Scouts and Girls Scouts united together in voice and space. As always, close inspection reveals many interesting details like the oddly displayed head above.

Pilgrimage to Shakespeare and Company

Many associations here, of course, inlcuding Tina Packer's inspiration for her theatre company of the same name. I also met Patrick Mooney here upon my arrival in Paris in 1991; it was pleasant to see that it had not changed much - at all?

Homage to Truffaut

Since Li's a budding filmmaker, it was a wonderful surprise to happen upon Truffaut's grave in the cemetery on Montmartre. We noticed right away that what's "done" to mark a visit is to leave a Paris Metro ticket. We agree that Truffaut's films are among the finest ever made.

"Peace is a Fight"